Small Scripps Day in 2005

You can't see easily but in the first shot you see Max Cerro behind me after I dropped him..Sorry about that Max! But don't worry I don't think you could have caught up with me. :)

O'side Harbor Surf 7/21/06

I caught 11th Street yesterday with Mike and Ryan, then paddled back to 15th and met up with Max. 11th wasn't amazing but fun...In between there was ok and the tide seemed to drop so I picked off a few at 15th before I left.

Today we checked Ponto..It wasn't really working so we headed to the harbor...It looked small but as usual it was in the solid chest high range and hitting pretty nicely..After the morning sickness let up, the tide got a little higher, and it straightened out it was a fun session...Mark from south africa, Dale, and Rich all went out too and we had a great session..Can't beat the 75 degree water and fun middles!

Leash or No Leash? That's the question!

I have recently seen and heard a lot of debate about whether one should wear a leash. I see 99% of the surfers (good ones too) wearing a leash. I see the occasional longboarder not wearing a leash but generally those guys have been ripping for over 35 years and they generally stay out of steep heavy surf so they don't take out the whole population in the lineup. Growing up surfing in contests, etc. I never went without a leash unless I was out on a really small day, uncrowded day, or close inside in shorebreak where nobody is swimming, bodyboarding, or wading. Some people call leashes "kook chords".

In reality, if someone loses their board even once and gets close to or does happen to hit someone with their board that is the truest of all kook moves. We've all done it, but to avoid it by wearing a leash is key. Wearing a leash is a sign of respect and safety for other surfers. Not wearing one because you think you're cool, you think you're an old timer (unless you're 50 or higher save it), or you just plain think you rip it up and you're the coolest guy out there makes no sense when it comes to real surfing ability. It makes no sense whatsoever on any crowded day not to wear a leash. For the safety and enjoyment of other people's surf sessions please always wear a leash unless it's two feet, mushy, and breaking gently through the inside....Like I said..If you're a seasoned longboarder who just doesn't lose his/her board, more power to you...Leave the leashless surfs to two foot mush..wear one out when I'm out there because I'd like to not make a visit to urgent care for stitches before work.

Acoustical Foo Fighters Concert

Went to the San Diego Civic Theatre last night for our wedding anniversary to see Timmy Curran's band and the Foo Fighters do an accoustical set. Timmy Curran probably needs to go back to the Pro Tour (WCT) because he's a much better surfer than a musician but he was actually pretty decent. The Foo Fighters were pretty incredible with many additions to the band for the acoustic tour. I was really impressed how they can translate their music so well to acoustic rather than just heavy the whole way through. Dave Grohl (is that how it's spelled?) did a pretty long encore without the band and it was impressive.

My camera phone sucks so I got another little blob on it that looks like any other concert that's blurred from afar so I won't bother posting a picture of the concert. After we got home from the show I thought I would get to bed at midnight and catch a surf the next day but Evan got up from 1am to around 6am so I slept from 6am to 7:30....No sleep, no surf! Later in the week hopefully...

O'side Harbor Surf 7/14/06

Met Dale, Rich, and Mark (Painting) at the harbor..we surfed middles..I rarely drive that far north anymore but I love that spot..Del Mar was fun on Wednesday..the power at the harbor and the hollowness made for some really rippable waves....Next week hopefully again..Cardiff with the family this Sunday and possibly Del Mar or Solana Beach this Tuesday..Harbor for sure on Friday!