Thursday, October 26, 2006

Blacks Surf 10/26/2006

Was supposed to meet Mike D., Ryan, Matt, and a couple of others at Scripps..A few didn't show, a few went up to Del Mar..I opted for Blacks..After looking at the pics it looks like Scripps would have been ok...Making the hike down the hill it looked kinda fun..Waist high, maybe bigger...It was glassy and it was pretty empty where I went....After 20 minutes in the water the wind went straighter offshore with the Santa Ana's kicking in, the waves cleaned up a bit and it turned out to be a great session of getting barrels. I got lots I rode a ways and didn't make...I made two but one was a full tail stomp, got pitted, then came out and got to hit it pretty hard...that was a fun session..Doing that again tomorrow...

Monday, October 09, 2006

Crystal Pier Surf 10/9/2006

So it wasn't big, and it probably wasn't any bigger than Scripps where everyone else surfed but man I had a great time...I just love that bowl right off of Crystal Pier on small or bigger days..Two other guys out....knee to waist high and I had my twin fin 6'6" fish...That thing works so amazing in most surf but that thing was magical today....Got about 7 great peeling lefts....



Very little competition for the peak and just empty really..Very clean....Got this shot (yes I caught up to the section) which was nowhere near the best wave or maneuver but it was an indication of how it was peeling...I hope to get everyone to make the trek south once in a while for some diversity...Blacks would have been better, but this was close, quiet, and empty too!

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